Anti-ageing skincare doesn’t come cheap, and there’s nothing more frustrating than seeing little return on your investment. You’ve spent time and money picking through a vast array of creams and serums promising wrinkle-smoothing, glow-boosting results, but the effects you’re actually getting personally are, at best, underwhelming. Is it all just snake oil, doomed to fail?
Not at all, according to A-list facialist Michaella Bolder, who is the secret behind Lily Collins’ flawless complexion, and has everyone from Dame Helen Mirren to Eva Herzigova and Naomie Harris on her skin CV. ‘Great regenerative skincare really works, but so many people are getting it wrong,’ she tells GH.
‘At an initial consultation, new clients will tell me what their skin routine looks at home, and 99% of the time they are using the wrong products in the wrong way,’ Michaella reveals.
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Anti-ageing is the area where she most commonly sees women going wrong with skincare, making errors that can stop products working optimally – or at all. ‘Regenerative skincare is at the top of most of our lists, so it’s really important know how and when to use products,’ says Michaella, whose DIY facial massage programme is launching soon.
Notebook at the ready? Here are the three biggest anti-ageing skincare mistakes she wants you to avoid, and the three best youth-boosting actives to add to your regime.
MISTAKE: Switching products around too often
Many skincare launches reel us in with promises of results in weeks, days, or even hours. Truth is, while well-formulated skincare can deliver a quick hit to some degree, the full benefits don’t happen overnight – and over-hyped expectations can lead us to abandon a perfectly good anti-ageing product far too soon, warns Michaella.
'It’s like giving up on abs crunches long before your body has a chance to even start building a six-pack - you’ll see no real benefits, and any hard work you’ve already put in goes to waste,' she says.
‘We all seemingly want to see immediate results when using a single skincare product, and that’s a huge mistake,’ she adds. ‘When you choose a product, make sure you are basing it around your skin needs and concerns, not just because it has been advertised to achieve the unachievable. Expecting one product to instantly turn back the clock just isn’t possible.’
MAKE IT WORK: Give your skin time to do its thing. ‘Be patient and give a product six-eight weeks before deciding whether it is effective for you or not, says Michaella. ‘Remember that collagen-stimulating, moisture-based skincare activates the base layer of the skin. Therefore they work with us for our future skin, not our skin today.’
MISTAKE: Misusing retinol at night
We all know that a retinoid is one of the most effective products to use overnight, yet ‘most of us are using it incorrectly,’ warns Michaella. ‘I hear often that retinol is the last product to be applied to the skin at night. Wrong!’
As she explains: ‘Vitamin A products are one of the most powerful anti-ageing ingredients on the market, says Michaella. ‘However retinol needs to be sealed to be its most effective self. It can also be a very drying ingredient, leading to it stripping the skin's natural moisture and increasing irritation.’
MAKE IT WORK: Lock in the benefits while shutting out the downside, urges Michaella. ‘Massaging a generous dose of a rich moisturiser such as Irene Forte Hibiscus Night Cream or Weleda Skin Food 20 minutes after you’ve applied your retinol will lock in the active ingredient, hydrate the skin intensely, reduce epidermal water loss and reduce any irritation.’
For extra comfort, you can also use the ‘sandwich method’, she adds. ‘This is something I recommend for clients with dry or sensitive skin. Apply a dose of moisturiser, then retinol, then a second layer of moisturiser – you’ll wake up with refreshed, bouncy and healthy skin!’
MISTAKE: Layering too many active ingredients
‘This is a common way people try to achieve a youthful appearance,’ says Michaella. ‘I see many clients who assume they need to use multiple potent products to improve their skin condition. Unfortunately, when this is unmonitored by a professional, it can only result in over-processed skin that shows signs of irritation, dryness, breakouts and sensitivity.’
And since inflamed skin is actually faster-ageing skin, it’s the opposite of what you’re trying to achieve.
MAKE IT WORK: ‘Do your research or reach for expert advice on what your skin concerns are, and how you can treat these without overdoing it,’ she advises. ‘Don’t think that more is better. If you are introducing a vitamin A product (such as retinol), it can be a good idea to drop back on your vitamin C for the first four weeks to allow your skin to adapt to a new active. Then reintroduce vitamin C once your skin has settled.’
The three best anti-ageing ingredients to use
There are so many actives on the market but ‘if I had to pick, there are the top three youth-boosting ingredients that you should be using,’ says Michaella.
Peptides
She says: 'They are essential to improve skin firmness, protect and stimulate collagen, and enhance signal cell strength and health.
Try: Peptide picks rated by GH include No7 Future Renew, and Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced
Vitamin A
Michaella tells us: 'These offer so many benefits: cell regeneration, enhancing collagen production, smoothing fine lines and reducing pigmentation.'
Try: Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Serum was recently crowned 'best retinol' in the Good Housekeeping Institute's testing.
SPF
"Yes, we’re all familiar with SPF but are you actually using it properly?" asks Michaella. "Daily usage is vital for any youth-boosting regime, so you need to choose one that’s right for your skin. A lighter fluid consistency is best for most skins. Apply three fingers’ worth over the face and neck in the morning after your moisturiser and reapply the same or a powdered / mist formula at lunch time and middle of the afternoon."
Try: Eve Lom's Daily Protection SPF50 was deemed a daily joy to use in GHI's testing of the best SPF moisturisers for bouncy skin.
Eve Lom Daily Protection Spf50
